How To Make A Raised Bed From Concrete Blocks

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dtrammel
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I posted about my sub-urban garden in THIS POST and used concrete partition blocks for the boarders of the raised beds. I had someone ask me if I had pictures of how I built them. Yes, I actually shot pictures as I constructed them, so here is how I did it. Hope it helps anyone looking to do the same.

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First, clear away the grass from the area you're going to use. I prefer using a flat blade shovel. It lets me slice under the grass, taking off just the top inch or so of soil. Use the blade to cut the ground into blade size chunks then push the blade under the edge and gentle wiggle it back and forth while pushing with your foot. I then use the grass sections on other areas of my lawn that are bare.

bed building first step

(This was taken a bit later in the process, since you can see the first two blocks are already laid. I just forgot to get a good shot of this, so I took it when I remembered I needed it.)

Second, once you have the beginning area cleared of grass, dig down to the depth you want your blocks planted. I go down about 2 inches. Scrape away the soil until its nearly level. Then take your shovel and lightly break up about 1/4 of an inch of soil where you will be laying the side blocks.

bed building second step

Then, using one of the blocks, tamp the soil down. Try to keep the area level.

bed building third step

Third, place the first block. You can use a carpenter's level if you want but I just eyeball it to see that its straight. Then add the second block. If there is a gap at the bottom where they join, the far end of the ground is high. Remove the block and use it to tamp down the ground more. If there is a gap at the top, then the ground is low. Remove the block, add a small amount of loose dirt, tamp it down and replace the block.

bed building fourth step

Fourth, remove the grass from an area about 24" long and as wide as your ends. Dig down and repeat the step for placing a block on the back side of the bed, in my case the one against the fence.

bed building fifth step

Fifth, once you have the block in place, begin to break up the ground inside of the bed as deep as you can. in my case it's the depth of the shovel blade, or about 6-8 inches. What you are doing is making the soil loose and easy for the plants' roots to get through and establish themselves. Leave an area in front where the next block will go.

bed building sixth step

Sixth, continue to remove the grass, this time back about another 18 inches. Once you have, repeat the steps and place the next rear block in the ground, then the first front block. I toss the loosened earth into the space between the blocks. Go ahead and pile it to the top, you'll have a chance to level it out once you finish.

bed building seventh step

Seventh, just keep doing those steps until you reach the length of bed you want. In this case I'm going seven blocks long and two wide for a bed of approximately 9 1/2 feet by 2.

bed building eighth step

Eighth, once I reached my length I made sure the bed was loose, then removed a full wheel barrel of dirt from the bed, then placed my final end blocks. At this point I fill in the exterior of the bed edges, and if I have large areas, like at the ends, use some of the earlier grass I removed to patch that.

bed building ninth step

Ninth, I added in 2 sqft of compost and worked it into the bed, turning the soil over and mixing it well. Some will point out that I made a mess of the bacteria and natural soil composition by turning it over like this, but this is the initial stage of establishing a raised bed. I'd rather accept that for the trade off of loosening the soil and making it more fertile with the soil additions. The beds established last year had the compost added to the surface and worked in to just a few inches, keeping the helpful bacteria alive.

(Note: At this point I added my pvc watering pipes. You may just consider skipping those and continuing on.)

Next, I dumped about half of the wheel barrel load back in and mixed it again. Finally adding another 2 sqft of compost and then the rest of the dirt, working that in as well.

And Finally, once you do all this you get a raised bed ready to be planted.

bed building tenth step

So this bed ran me $19 for the blocks, $16 for the compost, and about 8-10 hours of my time. (Add another $5 for the pvc watering system) Some people could do it quicker because I spent a lot of time loosening the soil because its a sub-urb and poor soil at that. Then I'd rather spend an hour or two more and give my plants a head start.

If you do one of these, please post pictures to this thread and any hints or problems you have.

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VondaO
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sounds pretty easy when you

sounds pretty easy when you put it like that Smile thank you for the instructions!

you did evrything so neat: it's like you were trying so hard to share with us Wink

thank you!

(the grass is so bright - can't wait to see my own garden bloom...)

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dtrammel
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It was the landlord lol

When I asked him if I could garden, his only request was it was neat and looked good. So I tried to keep it presentable.

I've found most landlords aren't orges, if you approach them right, in a way that you empathise your garden will make their property look better, they are happy to work with you.

Brian
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Even if some argue that a

Even if some argue that a raised bad should not be mixed with the existing soil, you did good combining them at the contact surface. Isolating the old soil is not good for the soil itself and, as you've said, existing bacteria will be lost. Your technique is simple and motivating and cheap as well. Were there any problems after planting the seeds? bijuterii argint

dtrammel
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The only problem

Was I planted my carrots, which sprout to about 5-8 inches, behind my radishes, which sprout to 12-14. They over shadowed the carrots a bit and made harvesting a b$$tch. I have since adopted a grouping of planting in a square, rather that a line down the bed's length.

What I did love about these concrete blocks after I built the beds was the way they were so friendly to planting flowers in the blocks. I planted some in every other hole and every time I went out to just sit in the garden, I was surrounded by butterflys and bees going for the flowers. I expect they polinated my veggies as well as just were nice to have around.

Also, concrete blocks last forever, are small and easily carried (a biggie considering my age), allow for any number of shapes of your bed depending on your location and are cheaper than cedar boards for a border. The landscaping crew loves them because there is no worry about their weed eaters damaging them when they come by.

They also have enough weight to make them free placing. I didn't need mortar, nor deep stakes to keep them in place.

emaneresU
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Great job!

What a wonderful post and thanks for posting pictures.  Best wishes in all your endeavors!

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Travelingbiker9
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Lasagna Style!

I was thinking you could do the same thing without the digging...  Just lay cardboard down where you otherwise would have dug, set the concrete blocks around the cardboard, and place your soil/compost on top of the cardboard filling in the area inside the concrete blocks.  Instant, no dig garden.  The cardboard will prevent weeds from growing in while allowing water to pass through, and eventually will break down and become soil itself.

What do you think?

May the wind always be in your face, and the breath of a sweet girl always on your neck....

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Fermenter Zym
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I was thinking you could do

I was thinking you could do the same thing without the digging...  Just lay cardboard down where you otherwise would have dug, set the concrete blocks around the cardboard, and place your soil/compost on top of the cardboard filling in the area inside the concrete blocks.  Instant, no dig garden.  The cardboard will prevent weeds from growing in while allowing water to pass through, and eventually will break down and become soil itself.

 

This is a good idea as it imitates the way nature mulches itself with organic matter and thus does not disturb soil life, but if you are going to use cardboard, make sure to do so a few months to a year before the growing season. I did a no-til garden this year with cardboard and compost and I believe my plants suffered by not being able to reach the soil beneath the compost until after a month or two after seed due to the slow decomposition of the cardboard.

dtrammel
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My One Concern

was the blocks creeping open and allowing the soil and water to spill out. That's why I buried them a bit. I also knew my soil was going to need a ton of work to get it loose enough for plants. Missouri suburbs have very high clay content.

I'd say give it a try with the cardboard and see. It's not like you can't come back in next year and reseat them deeper if its a problem.

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Travelingbiker9
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"No Dig"

That's the beauty of the no dig garden...  You're gardening on top of the ground, not in the ground.

 

 I also knew my soil was going to need a ton of work to get it loose enough for plants. 

May the wind always be in your face, and the breath of a sweet girl always on your neck....

dtrammel
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Missouri Clay

Clearly you have better soil than we do. I swear I could cut a section out of my ground, fire it in an oven, and have a better than store bought brick, given the amount of clay we have in our soil here.

Adding 5-6 inches of composted soil to the top of that, isn't going to let your plants grow anything but surface roots. Check out a chart sometimes and you'll find most vegetables have root systems measured in feet not inches. Asparagus has roots that can go ten feet deep.

And I plant alot of root vegetables, (carrots, radishes, potatoes, sweet potatoes) and those need a very deep bed to properly grow.

The nice thing about a well dug and soil enriched bed is ita ability to handle water. We had tons of rain this Spring, and I never had the water logged soil that others have had.

The more I read about gardening, the more I find that its soil preparation and management which leads to a successful harvest. And that developing a really good soil takes years.

Try these books for more info on deep beds:

"The Vegetable Gardener's Bible" by Edward C. Smith

http://www.amazon.com/Vegetable-Gardeners-Bible-10th-Anniversary/dp/160342475X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1311725022&sr=1-1

"How to Grow More Vegetables" by John Jeavons

http://www.amazon.com/Vegetables-Berries-Thought-Possible-Imagine/dp/1580087965/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1311725087&sr=1-1

 

If you do what you mentioned, please keep us updated on your progress.

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Tully Reill
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There's a reason the Native American's built with Adobe out here

Northern AZ is just as bad with the clay in the soil. Even with turning and working the top eight inches of soil and then putting raised beds with another foot, I had very stubby fat carrots with my first raised beds.

dtrammel
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Try Parisian Carrots

Aka Tonda di Parigi. They are radish like in that they are round and very tasty too. They have a shallow root system and like growing in bunches. Great for container growing as well.

Cathy McGuire
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Wow! Thanks!

That's impressive! Thanks for the step-by step - I hope it encourages some folks to try at least one this year. I built two wooden and one straw bale last year to reduce the amount that I have to bend, and also (since I put wood at the bottom) to foil the dang moles and whatever else destroyed my garlic and potato crops!

The photos are nice and clear - great job!

dtrammel
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Thanks

Thanks Cathy.

I do alot of "how-tos" in another line of work, so I just got into the habit of shooting pictures each step of the way on any project I did. I've seen many comments on TAR from people who say they have no way to get any sort of gardening in. Every landlord I've rented from never minded me putting in some sort of garden, they only wanted it to not detract from the appearance of the property.

I think people would be surprised how agreeable a landlord would be to their desire to put something in.

Now, I first looked at wooden beds but going with cedar is expensive, anything else either is treated, and leeches chemicals into the bed, or is untreated and rots after a few years. That's a big reason I went with concrete blocks. Hopefully this post will help a few here plant their first bed.

BTW, I'm from a more hardline survivalist background back to the 80s, and I know we've discussed some things and decided to keep this forum a bit more main stream and less guns and ammo orientated. I have a few more general "how-tos" I'll be posting soon here, which I hope will help those just starting out.

As for moles, had them last Fall, haven't seen them yet, still I'm very root vegetable heavy in my planting this year, so we'll see...

Might try that Castor oil mole remedy I posted earlier.